Sunday, October 16, 2016

Taman Nasional Tanjung Puting: Pondok Tanggui

Masih ingat tentang berita kebakaran hutan di Kalimantan tahun 2015 lalu?
Ketika mendengar berita kebakaran hutan, rasanya aku jadi kebakaran jenggot gara-gara waktu itu belum kesampaian melihat orangutan di Taman Nasional Tanjung Puting. Melihat orangutan langsung di habitatnya di Kalimantan merupakan salah satu bucket list ku sejak bercita-cita ingin jadi dokter hewan setelah lulus SMA (walaupun tidak terwujud, hiks...).

Do you still remember about forest fires in Kalimantan on 2015?
When I heard about it, I felt like I got fire on my pants, because I still haven’t see orangutan in Tanjung Puting National Park. Seeing orangutan directly at their habitat in Kalimantan was one of my bucket list since I dream to become a veterinarian after graduated from senior high school (even I can’t make it though, sob..).

And at last!! Aku mendapat kesempatan berkunjung ke Taman Nasional Tanjung Puting pada Juni 2016 lalu. Yeeeaaay! Feels like dreams come true! Seneng banget rasanya. Sejak mulai naik pesawat dari Cengkareng juga udah excited banget. Padahal mah orang lain mikirnya: "Idih, ngapain jauh-jauh ke Kalimantan cuma buat liat orangutan doang" atau "mendingan mah lo ke Derawan aja deh, pantainya bagus banget."

And at last!! I got a chance to visit Tanjung Puting National Park on last June 2016. Yaaaaay! Feels like dreams come true! I was so happy. Since I take the flight from Cengkareng, I can’t keep any excitement inside anymore. Though lots of people think: “Why should you go to Kalimantan just to see orangutan?” or “Don’t you think it’s better to change destination to Derawan, it’s famous of it’s beautiful beaches.”

Hmm.. Sayang sekali, aku berbeda dengan kalian manusia biasa yang sangat mainstream (ups). Bukannya gak suka pantai pasir putih yang airnya bening, tapi tahukah kamu bahwa orangutan Kalimantan, salah satu fauna warisan alam nusantara kita, sudah masuk status konservasi critically endangered alias terancam oleh IUCN sejak tahun 1994? Gakuku rasanya kalo bayangin orangutan punah, pengen nangis. Apalagi kalo gak sempet lihat langsung di habitatnya. Makanya pas bulan lalu ada waktu, aku gak pikir panjang langsung booking tiket dan terbang melewati deretan awan putih dari Jawa ke Kalimantan.

Hmm… Fortunately I was born different with all of you guys mainstream common people (oops). It doesn’t mean I don’t like white sandy beach with crystal clear water, but don’t you know that orangutan in Kalimantan is one of our country’s natural heritage animal, and already have conservation status as critically endangered by IUCN since 1994? I really can't imagine orangutan getting extinct. Moreover if I haven't see them in their habitat directly. That's why when I got the chance last month, I don't think too much just bought the ticket and flew through white puffy clouds from Java to Kalimantan.


Perjalanan ku di mulai dari Kota Manis Pangkalan Bun. Kalau belum tahu tentang Pangkalan Bun, silakan klik di sini. Kota ini ibarat pintu masuk untuk ke Taman Nasional Tanjung Puting (selanjutnya disingkat menjadi TNTP). TNTP hanya bisa diakses melewati jalur air, yaitu dengan naik perahu kelotok atau speedboat. Kita bisa booking kelotok atau speedboat di visitor center yang berada di pelabuhan Kumai.

My trip was started from Pangkalan Bun, the sweet city. Click here for more info about this city. This city be like the main gate to Tanjung Puting National Park (shortened to TPNP). TPNP can only be accessed by water transportation, you can choose kelotok or speedboat. We can book kelotok or speedboat at the visitor center that located in Kumai port.


Perjalanan dengan kelotok makan waktu banget, soalnya jalannya lebih pelan dibandingkan speedboat. Karena aku hanya punya waktu beberapa hari, jadi aku memutuskan untuk naik speedboat.

Going with kelotok will take plenty of time because it moves slower than speedboat. Since I only have few days to spend there, I went with speedboat.


Sebenarnya kalau ingin menikmati alam dengan khidmat dan syahdu, sangat disarankan naik kelotok. Di dalam perahu kelotok biasanya sudah ada fasilitas lengkap untuk aktifitas keseharian sampai bermalam di perahu. Kalau kamu mau naik kelotok, mungkin harus siapkan waktu sekitar 3 hari untuk bermalam di kelotok sambil keliling TNTP. Perjalanan ku waktu itu menggunakan speedboat, jadi bisa mengunjungi 2 lokasi rehabilitasi sekaligus yang ada di TNTP dalam 1 hari.

Actually if you want to enjoy and feel the nature deeply, I suggest you to take kelotok. Inside kelotok there are facilities to spend overnight on board. If you want to take kelotok, you have to prepare time at least 3 days for the journey to go around TPNP. My trip was using speedboat, so I can visit 2 rehabilitation center in TPNP just in 1 day.


The scenery of my trip using speedboat with our guide Pak Hatman and Pak Masrani the navigator.
Perjalanan ku mulai dari jam 7:30 pagi dengan tujuan pertama Pondok Tanggui, menyusuri Sungai Sekonyer dengan pemandangan deretan pohon nipah sejauh mata memandang.

My journey starts on 7:30 in the morning with Pondok Tanggui as the first destination, we went along Sekonyer River with nipa palm trees as far as our eyes can see.

Sekonyer River villager just came back from Kumai.
Saat sedang dalam perjalanan, tiba-tiba teman seperjalanan ku orang asli Pangkalan Bun melihat daun pohon nipah yang bergoyang-goyang. Ternyata dia melihat orangutan liar Kalimantan! Aku pun sempat melihat orangutan liar tersebut sedang menyantap batang pohon nipah beberapa saat, sebelum akhirnya kabur karena kami mencoba mendekat.

Before reaching our first destination, suddenly my Pangkalan Bun born friend saw a shaking nipa palm tree. He saw a Kalimantan wild orangutan! I also saw it eating the stem of nipa palm tree, before it ran away because we tried to get closer.

Nipa palm tree that the wild orangutan ate.
Sungguh keberuntungan yang tidak diduga. Sayangnya aku tidak sempat mengambil foto orangutan liar tersebut karena terpesona sampai lupa dengan kamera yang menggantung di leher ku.

We were so lucky for this unexpected moment. Unfortunately I didn't get the chance to take a picture of that wild orangutan because I was bewitched that I even forget about my camera was hanging on my neck.

Nipa palm tree fruit, some people said it can be consumed.
Keberuntungan kami belum berhenti sampai disitu. Selang beberapa saat setelah melanjutkan perjalanan, kami melihat sekelompok bekantan yang baru saja menyebrangi Sungai Sekonyer.

Our fortune didn't stop just like that. Just a few minutes after we continue our journey, we found a group of bekantan (proboscis monkey) that just crossed the Sekonyer River.



Kami sempat mendekat pelan-pelan dan beruntung bisa mengambil foto dan video bekantan-bekantan yang sedang melompat.

We tried to get closer and luckily we can take a few photos and videos of those jumping bekantans. 


Setelah beberapa saat kembali menyusuri sungai, kami pun sampai di Resort Pesalat. Pak Masrani, pemandu kami turun untuk melapor dan membayar izin masuk kepada petugas.

After a while we continue our trip, then we arrived at Resort Pesalat. Pak Masrani, our guide get off to report and pay the entry fee to the officer.



Tidak jauh dari Resort Pesalat, akhirnya speedboat berhenti di sebuah dek pada pukul 8:30. Setelah turun, kami dikejutkan oleh kemunculan makhluk berbulu.

Not far from Resort Pesalat, on 8:30 our speedboat stopped on a deck. We get off, and we were surprised by a furry friend that suddenly appeared.


Aku dan kawan ku, juga beberapa turis mancanegara yang ada di sana mendekat dengan antusias, menunggu makhluk tersebut menunjukan rupanya. Dan tanpa rasa takut, makhluk tersebut mendekati kami menampilkan wujudnya. "Namanya Albert" kata salah seorang staf TNTP yang kebetulan ada di dekat dek.

Me and my friend, and other foreign tourist went closer and wait for that creature to appear entirely. Without fear, that creature came closer to us showing his form. "His name is Albert" said a TPNP officer that was there coincidentally. 


Seakan tahu bahwa dia sedang dijadikan objek foto oleh ku dan beberapa turis mancanegara, tanpa malu-malu, Albert mendekat dan duduk di sebuah dahan pohon. Bahkan Albert sempat buang air kecil di depan kami, aduh Albert! Walaupun gemas dengan Albert, kami harus melanjutkan perjalanan sebelum feeding time di Pondok Tanggui dimulai. Perjalanan berikutnya yaitu sedikit trekking dengan start jalur lurus berpapan kayu.

As if he knew that me and some other foreign tourist are taking his picture, Albert came closer and sat on a tree branch. Even Albert peed in front of us, OMG Albert! Even though Albert was so cute, we have to continue before feeding time at Pondok Tanggui start. Next we went a short trekking starting at a straight long wooden route. 



Setelah trekking singkat sekitar 10 menit, akhirnya kami sampai di Pondok Tanggui. Di dekat feeding spot ada semacam gazebo yang bisa digunakan sebagai tempat istirahat sejenak bagi pengunjung.

After trekking about around 10 minutes, we arrived at Pondok Tanggui. Near the feeding spot, there is a place with gazebo that can be used for visitor to take a rest for a while.



Karena sudah mendekati jam 9:00, kami segera ke tempat feeding orangutan. Di sana sudah ada beberapa wisatawan yang sudah menunggu feeding time dimulai. Pada saat itu wisatawan lokal hanya aku dan teman ku, sisanya semuanya wisatawan mancanegara.

Then, we went to orangutan feeding spot because it was near 9:00. There are already some foreign tourist waiting for feeding time to start. Me and my friend were the only local tourist, the rest are foreign tourist.



Pukul 9:00 tepat, beberapa ekor orangutan mulai mendekat. Sepertinya mereka sudah hafal jam makan mereka. Ada ibu orangutan dan bayinya yang menggelantung di tubuh ibunya sudah standby di atas pohon dekat feeding spot.

On 9 o'clock, some orangutan started to came closer. As if they already know it's their meal time. There were mommy orangutan and her baby hanging around her body, waiting on a tree near the feeding spot.

Mommy and baby orangutan :)
Kemudian seorang staf rehabilitasi TNTP meletakan makanan orangutan berupa buah-buahan di tengah feeding spot. Seekor orangutan yang sudah menunggu di feeding spot langsung melahap makanan yang disediakan.

Then a TPNP rehabilitation officer put a bowl of fruits for orangutan in the middle of the feeding spot. An orangutan that is already waiting on the feeding spot grab some fruit fast without hesitation.


Lalu beberapa ekor orangutan lainnya pun ikut mendekat dan menyantap buah-buahan tersebut.

After that, some other orangutan also came closer and start eating too.


Yang jadi kesukaan ku adalah baby orangutan, karena si baby orangutan selalu nempel sama mommy orangutan, lucu dan gemes tuh nah liatnya.

My favorite is the baby orangutan, because baby orangutan always stick with mommy orangutan, it was really cute.

Baby orangutan is my favorite because it's too cute :)
Kalau orang Kalimantan Tengah bilangnya "lucu bujuuuur!" bahasa Kalimantan artinya "lucu bangeet!" Tapi hati-hati loh kalo bilang "bujur" di Jawa Barat, dalam bahasa Sunda artinya "bokong". Aku pernah bilang "lucu bujur" di depan teman ku yang orang Sunda dan ekspresi mukanya langsung aneh. Sejak itu aku baru tau perbedaan artinya di Kalimantan dan di Jawa Barat. Malu sih enggak. Justru kagum, soalnya berkat hal ini aku jadi kembali sadar bahwa aku sangat beruntung terlahir di negeri yang kaya akan bahasa dan budaya. I'm proud being Indonesian!

People in Central Kalimantan will say "lucu bujur!" some kind of dialect from Kalimantan that means "so cute!" But you have to be careful to not say "bujur" in West Java, because in Sundanese it means "butt." I once said "lucu bujur" in front of my Sundanese friend, and his expression became weird. Since then I knew the difference saying it in Kalimantan and West Java. I wasn't embarrassed at all. Instead I was amazed, because of this experience I realized that I was so lucky to born in a country rich of  language and culture. I'm proud being Indonesian.


Sama seperti Albert, sepertinya beberapa ekor orangutan di sini memang sadar kamera ya. Tidak jarang mereka memperlihatkan pose-pose lucu sambil makan kepada para wisatawan yang hadir. Kelakuan para orangutan ini sungguh memikat hati wisatawan yang berkunjung, termasuk aku :)

Just like Albert, some other orangutans here also conscious of the camera. Sometimes they do cute pose and show it to the tourist while eating. These orangutan's behavior are really bewitching the tourists, including me :)


Setelah selesai feeding time di Pondok Tanggui, kami berencana untuk istirahat sejenak sebelum kemudian melanjutkan perjalanan ke Camp Leakey untuk melihat feeding time pukul 14:00.

After feeding time in Pondok Tanggui, we took a rest for a while before continuing our trip to Camp Leakey to see feeding time on 14:00.

Nah masih ingin tahu kelanjutan petualangan ku di TNTP kan? Stay tune di blog ku dan tunggu posting-an berikutnya ya :)

Curious of what happened next on my trip at TPNP right? Stay tune on my blog for my next blog post :)

Glosarium
IUCN: International Union for Conservative of Nature.
Gakuku: Gak kuat.
Tuh nah: Semacam ungkapan seperti "tuh" (bahasa Kalimantan Tengah).
Bujur: Banget (bahasa Kalimantan Tengah).

How to go:
Untuk ke TNTP menggunakan speedboat, harus booking paling lambat 1 hari sebelumnya. Sedangkan kalau mau menggunakan kelotok sebaiknya booking dari jauh-jauh hari karena banyak wisatawan yang ingin pakai kelotok.
Ongkos sewa speedboat untuk 1 hari sebesar Rp 1.500.000 sudah termasuk tiket masuk, pemandu wisata, dan pengemudi. Tidak termasuk tip.

2 comments:

  1. pasti beda banget ngelihat binatang primata ini di alam terbuka dengan di kebon binatang

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    Replies
    1. Yaa, karena kadang ada rasa iba kalau di kebun binatang krn mereka sperti di dalam kandang

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